How to Depill Cashmere (And Why Pilling Doesn't Mean Damaged)

The first time you notice pills forming on a cashmere sweater, it can feel alarming. Like something has gone wrong. Like the sweater is failing.

It hasn't. Pilling is completely normal — and understanding why it happens is the first step to handling it confidently.

Why Cashmere Pills

Pilling is simply friction. Anywhere fibers rub together repeatedly — where a bag strap sits on your shoulder, under the arms, along the sides — the shorter fibers work their way to the surface and tangle into small knots.

It happens to all natural fibers, including the finest cashmere. A well-made piece will pill lightly at first, then settle as the looser fibers work themselves out. Cheaper cashmere made from shorter fibers pills more aggressively and keeps going — that's the real quality tell, not whether pilling happens at all.

Pilling is not damage. It's a natural part of wearing something you love — and it's entirely fixable.

The Right Tool Makes All the Difference

There are two tools worth having: a cashmere comb and a fabric shaver. They do slightly different jobs.

A cashmere comb — typically a small, fine-toothed tool with gentle metal teeth — is the more precise option. You hold the fabric taut and draw the comb lightly across the surface in one direction. It lifts pills cleanly without stressing the surrounding fibers. It takes a little more time, but it's the gentler choice and the one I reach for on finer pieces.

A fabric shaver works faster and is great for heavier knits or areas with more significant buildup. The rotating blade shaves pills cleanly from the surface. The key is to use a light touch — let the tool do the work rather than pressing into the fabric.

Both are inexpensive and widely available. Either one, used correctly, can make an older sweater look almost new.

What Not to Do

Pulling pills off with your fingers is the most common mistake. It feels satisfying in the moment, but it tugs at the surrounding fibers and can create thin spots or small holes over time. The same goes for aggressive shaving — pressing too hard or going over the same area repeatedly stresses the knit.

The goal is always gentle, consistent maintenance rather than occasional aggressive intervention.

How Often to Depill

There's no fixed schedule. Some sweaters need attention after a few wears; others go a full season without much buildup. A good habit is to quickly check your cashmere each time you fold it for storage. If you see pills starting to form, take two minutes with your comb before putting it away. Catching it early means less work later.

Finishing the Job

Once you've depilled, I like to finish with a light mist of a cashmere or wool spray. It's a small step that makes a real difference — the spray relaxes any fibers that were disturbed during combing, lightly refreshes the fabric, and leaves the sweater feeling soft and cared for. Let it dry completely before folding and putting it away.

It turns what could feel like a chore into something that actually feels good. Two minutes of attention, and a sweater that looks and feels almost new. That's a pretty good return.

A Note on Prevention

A few things reduce pilling in the first place: wearing an underlayer to minimize direct skin friction, washing gently and laying flat to dry, and avoiding rough surfaces like certain bag straps or coat interiors that create constant abrasion.

But some pilling will always happen, and that's okay. A cashmere sweater that's been worn and loved and carefully maintained for years is a beautiful thing — pills and all.

Fewer things. Better things. Loved for longer.

Explore the current cashmere edit at marincashmere.etsy.com